From Our Friends at  Dayspring Restoration Missoula
February 10, 2017 By Mark Springer

It’s ice dam season again! Dayspring Restoration is busy responding to water and moisture damage that result from these drastic Montana winter warm ups that are a major cause of ice damming. If you missed winter maintenance this fall, you may have ice dams, too. Here are some keys to know how to prevent and maintain the health of your roof and home.

I think I have an ice dam, but what is it exactly, and how is it created?

Ice dams are large chunks of ice that form on the edges of roofs, commonplace during Montana winters. They are created when your attic warms the bottom layer of snow on the roof above it. The warmed snow then turns to water and travels to the cold, extended eave, where the water freezes again, and ice mounts. Flat roofs are especially susceptible to ice dams, as are gutters since they hold snow and ice. Gutters, downspouts, your roof and your home can all be damaged by ice dams.
What kind of damage from ice dams can I expect?                  READ MORE HERE

Here is a really interesting article from one of our fellow InterNACHI Inspectors. 
When hot water gets cold, freezing pipes and the Mpemba Effect.
By Our fellow interNACHI Inspector
Don Hester of Wenatchee Home Inspection
When hot water gets cold, freezing pipes and the Mpemba Effect.
With winter putting it grips on the much the country a real issue becomes frozen pipes. Many may not know that your hot water pipes may be even more vulnerable to freezing quicker than the cold water pipes. Remember the key word here…”may”.  This came up in a discussion in a meeting when a local Plumber Matt Bruggman of Plumb Perfect suggested that I may know why, referring to me as the resident scientist in the room (by the way I am not a scientist).
At first I thought, I have heard of it this but really did not know why it happens, and then I questioned myself, was it really true or just more folklore? That lead me to do a little research on this and what I found was even better than what I could have thought.

The phenomenon of hot water freezing quicker is due to what is referred to as the “Mpemba Effect” named after a Tanzanian student who in 1963 at 13 years old noticed that hot ice cream/boiled milk mix freezes faster than a cold one.

It turns out that one day Mpemba put his ice cream in the freezer at school when hot and found out that his ice cream froze before his fellow students who let theirs cool a bit first.  Read The Full Article Here

NCW Home Inspections, LLC  is a Licensed Washington State Home Inspection service located in Wenatchee Washington serving Chelan County, Douglas County, Kittitas County, Okanogan County and Grant County Washington and the cities of Wenatchee, Leavenworth, Cashmere, Oroville, Cle Elum, East Wenatchee, Quincy and many more…   Find Them On Facebook Click  Here

As many of us light a crackling fire to welcome the on coming chill of fall its a great time to make sure that fire extinguisher will be ready if we need it.
Fire extinguishers are used to douse a fire and prevent it from spreading . They are small metal canisters that contain compressed gas (usually nitrogen) that, when activated they propel a spray of flame-retardant chemicals.
But fire extinguishers are only effective if you understand how they are intended to be used.

Download Your Free Home Fire Safety Check List

There is more than one kind of fire extinguisher: each kind is designed for a specific "Fire Type"
 Fire extinguishers are classified based on the type of fire on which they are effective.
Fires are classified by their fuel source and assigned identifying letters as follows:

• “A” class – Fires that result from ordinary combustibles, such as wood and paper.
• “B” class – Fires that result from combustible liquids, such as kerosene, gasoline, oil, and grease.
• “C” class – Fires of an electrical nature. These result from the combustion of circuit breakers, wires, outlets, and other electrical devices and equipment. Extinguishers designed to handle this type of fire cannot use chemicals that are conductive since conductive agents increase the risk of electric shock to the operator.
• “D” class – Fires resulting from combustible metals, such as sodium, potassium, titanium, and magnesium.  (These fires occur mostly in chemical laboratories and are rare in most other environments.)
• “K” class – These types of fires consume vegetable oils, animal fats, and generally happen in kitchens.

No fire extinguisher can be safely and effectively used for every type of fire.
Some contain chemicals that are ineffective in certain situations and can even cause harm to the operator if misapplied.
To prevent confusion, extinguishers are classified by the type of chemical agents they contain. A few of the most common extinguisher types are:

• Dry Chemical – There are two types of fire extinguishers that use a dry chemical.

1. One is called “multi-purpose dry chemical” and uses ammonium phosphate as the extinguishing agent, which is effective on “A,” “B,” and “C” class fires. This chemical is corrosive and must be scrubbed from surfaces after use. These types of extinguishers are very common and are found in schools, homes, hospitals and offices.
2. Sodium bicarbonate is used in extinguishers known as “regular dry chemical,” which are capable of handling “B” and “C” class fires. These extinguishers are found in garages, kitchens and laboratories. Sodium bicarbonate is easy to clean and non-toxic.

• Carbon Dioxide – These extinguishers contain liquid CO2 that is expelled as a gas. They are effective against “B” and “C” class fires. Unlike other chemicals, CO2 does not leave a harmful residue and is environmentally friendly. It also poses very little danger to electronics and is effectively employed in laboratories, computer rooms, and other areas with sensitive equipment.

• Water Extinguishers – These extinguishers are most suited for “A” class fires. However, they cannot be used in “B,” “C” or "D" class fires. In "B" and "D" class fires, the water will spread the flames. In a "C" class fire, the water is conductive and poses a risk of electric shock to the operator. However, the misting nozzle of a "Water Mist" extinguisher breaks up the stream of deionized water so that there is no conductive path back to the operator. Since the agent used is water, these types of extinguishers are inexpensive and environmentally friendly.

• Chemical Fire Extinguishers – These devices are designed to combat “K” class fires and commonly use potassium acetate. They are appropriately employed in commercial kitchens and restaurants, especially around deep fryers. The chemical is emitted as a fine mist that does not cause grease to splash onto other surfaces. They can also be used in “A” class fires.   

What is on an Extinguisher’s Label Tag?
You should find:

• essential information about the types of fires they can combat.
• newer devices have pictures that correspond directly to the fire types listed above. Older models have letters that serve the same purpose.
• a numerical rating that designates the extinguishing potential for that particular model (class “A” and “B”).
• instructions for operation.
• a tag that indicates if and when an inspection occurred.

When should a fire extinguisher be used?
Small fires can be controlled through the use of household or commercial fire extinguishers.
A household extinguisher can often completely douse a very small fire and prevent the need for professional assistance. Even if a fire cannot be completely doused, a home owner can potentially control a blaze long enough with an extinguisher for fire fighters to arrive.  Fire extinguishers should not be used if the operator is not sure they have the proper type of extinguisher, if they are not sure how to use it, or if they cannot avoid smoke or are in imminent danger.   If the operation of an extinguisher will place building occupants in danger, they should evacuate the building and wait for fire crews to arrive.

Do fire extinguishers expire?
Yes, fire extinguishers do expire and they do this for a few different reasons.
Over time, the seal on the neck will weaken and allow compressed gas to escape. Extinguishers that have lost much of their pressure will not operate. Pressure within an extinguisher can be conveniently checked through a pressure gauge. “ABC” class extinguishers (ammonium phosphate) have the tendency to fail due to solidification of the chemical in the canister base. Home owners and inspectors can delay this process by periodically shaking the extinguisher. Expensive extinguishers that have expired, especially those designed for commercial use, can be refilled and resealed by companies who specialize in this service. Inexpensive models are disposable.

Unfortunately, an expiration date cannot be fully trusted and there is no foolproof way to know if an extinguisher is no longer functional. Due to the extremely destructive potential of fires and the relatively low cost of extinguishers, it is advisable to replace or recharge questionable extinguishers.
 
In summary, extinguishers are classified based on their chemical ingredients, all of which have their own strengths and limitations. It is important to know what type of extinguisher combats what type of fire.  Fire extinguishers are critical indoor components that must be maintained and inspected regularly.

Fire Extinguisher Inspection, Testing and Replacement

The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) recommends that extinguishers should be tested every twelve years or five years, depending on the type. The standard method of testing, “hydrostatic,” is conducted underwater where the cylinders are subjected to pressures that exceed their ratings. Vessels that fail the test are condemned and destroyed, while the rest are reassembled and put back into service.

According to the NFPA, extinguishers should be destroyed if any of the following conditions are present (they should not be tested):

• a. where repairs by soldering, welding, brazing, or use of patching compounds exist.
• b. where the cylinder threads are worn, corroded, broken, cracked or nicked.
• c. where there is corrosion that has caused pitting, including pitting under a removable nameplate or name band assembly.
  
• d. where the fire extinguisher has been burned in a fire.
• e. where a calcium chloride-type of extinguisher agent was used in a stainless steel fire extinguisher.
• f. where the shell is of copper or brass construction joined by soft solder or rivets.
• g. where the depth of a dent exceeds 1/10 of the greatest dimension of the dent if not in a weld, or exceeds 1⁄4 in. (0.6 cm) if the dent includes a weld.
• h. where any local or general corrosion, cuts, gouges or dings have removed more than 10 percent of the minimum cylinder wall thickness.
• i. where a fire extinguisher has been used for any purpose other than that of a fire extinguisher.

An ice dam is a ridge of ice that forms at the edge of a roof and prevents melting snow from draining. As water backs up behind the dam, it can leak through the roof and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation and other areas.
 
How do ice dams form?
 
Ice dams are formed by an interaction between snow cover, outside temperatures, and heat lost through the roof. Specifically, there must be snow on the roof, warm  portions of the upper roof (warmer than 32° F), and cold portions of the lower roof (at freezing or below). Melted snow from the warmer areas will refreeze when it flows down to the colder portions, forming an ice dam.
 
Although the primary contributor to snow melting is heat loss from the building's interior, solar radiation can also provide sufficient heat to melt snow on a roof. For example, in southern Canada, enough sunlight can be transmitted through 6 inches (150 mm) of snow cover on a clear and sunny day to cause melting at the roof's surface even when the outside temperature is 14° F (-10° C), with an attic temperature of 23° F (-5° C).
 
Gutters do not cause ice dams to form, contrary to popular belief.
​Gutters do, however, help concentrate ice from the dam in a vulnerable area, where parts of the house can peel away under the weight of the ice and come crashing to the ground.
 
Problems Associated with Ice Dams
 Ice dams are problematic because they force water to leak from the roof into the building envelope. This may lead to:

• rotted roof decking, exterior and interior walls, and framing;
• respiratory illnesses (allergies, asthma, etc.) caused by mold growth;
• reduced effectiveness of insulation. Wet insulation doesn’t work well, and chronically wet insulation will not decompress even when it dries. Without working insulation, even more heat will escape to the roof where more snow will melt, causing more ice dams which, in turn, will lead to leaks; and
• peeling paint. Water from the leak will infiltrate wall cavities and cause paint to peel and blister. This may happen long after the ice dam has melted and thus not appear directly related to the ice dam.

Prevention

• Keep the entire roof cold. This can be accomplished by implementing the following measures:
  • Install a metal roof. Ice formations may occur on metal roofs, but the design of the roof will not allow the melting water to penetrate the roof's surface. Also, snow and ice are more likely to slide off of a smooth, metal surface than asphalt shingles.
  • Seal all air leaks in the attic floor, such as those surrounding wire and plumbing penetrations, attic hatches, and ceiling light fixtures leading to the attic from the living space below.
  • Increase the thickness of insulation on the attic floor, ductwork, and chimneys that pass through the attic.
• Move or elevate exhaust systems that terminate just above the roof, where they are likely to melt snow.
• A minimum of 3" air space is recommended between the top of insulation and roof sheathing in sloped ceilings.
• Remove snow from the roof. This can be accomplished safely using a roof rake from the ground. Be careful not to harm roofing materials or to dislodge dangerous icicles.
• Create channels in the ice by hosing it with warm water. Because this process intentionally adds water to the roof, this should be done only in emergencies where a great deal of water is already flowing through the roof, and when temperatures are warm enough that the hose water can drain before it freezes.

Prevention and Removal Methods to Avoid

• electric heat cables. These rarely work, they require effort to install, they use electricity, and they can make shingles brittle.
• manual removal of the ice dam using shovels, hammers, ice picks, rakes, or whatever destructive items can be found in the shed. The roof can be easily damaged by these efforts, as can the homeowner, when they slip off of the icy roof. Get a qualified professional to help you when needed.

In summary, ice dams are caused by inadequate attic insulation, but homeowners can take certain preventative measures to ensure that they are rare.
by Nick Gromicko

  Winterization; if you live in Montana you know how important it is to prepare a home for the harsh conditions of winter.
It is usually performed in the fall before snow and excessive cold have arrived. Winterization protects you against damage due to bursting water pipes, and from heat loss due to openings in the building envelope.

Our inspectors know how winterization works and are able to pass this information on to you.
Your Plumbing System
Water damage caused by bursting pipes during cold weather can be devastating. A ruptured pipe will release water and not stop until someone shuts off the water. If no one is home to do this, an enormous quantity of water can flood a house and cause thousands of dollars' worth of damage. Even during very small ruptures or ruptures that are stopped quickly, water leakage can result in mold and property damage. Broken water pipes can be costly to repair.

• All exposed water pipes in cold areas, such as attics, garages, and crawlspaces, should be insulated. Foam or fiberglass insulation can be purchased at most hardware stores.  Insulation should cover the entirety of a pipe.
• Plastic is more tolerant of cold expansion than copper or steel. Houses in colder climates might benefit from the exclusive use of approved plastic plumbing. 
• Water supply for exterior pipes should be shut off from inside the house and then drained.
• Sprinkler systems are particularly vulnerable to cracking due to cold-weather expansion. In addition to turning them, it helps to purge the system of any remaining water with compressed air.
• Homeowners should be aware that much of the plumbing system travels through areas that are significantly colder than the rest of the house. Because it is impossible to monitor the temperature of every portion of the plumbing system, indoor air temperature should be kept high enough throughout the winter to keep pipes in any unheated places from freezing.

Leaks in your Building Envelope
        Drafty leaky window frames, door frames, and electrical outlets can allow warm air to escape into the outdoors.

• Windows that leak will allow cold air into the home. Feeling for drafts with a hand or watching for horizontal smoke from an incense stick are a few easy ways to inspect for leaks. They can be repaired with tape or caulk.
• On a breezy day, a homeowner can walk through the house and find far more leaks than they knew existed. Leaks are most likely in areas where a seam exists between two or more building materials.

Your Insulation

• Because hot air rises into the attic, a disproportionately larger amount of heat is lost there than in other parts of the house. Like a winter hat that keeps a head warm, adequate attic insulation will prevent warm indoor air from escaping. Attic insulation should be 12 inches thick in cold climates.
• Storm doors and windows should be installed to insulate the house and protect against bad weather.

Your Heating System
 
The heating system is used most during the winter so it’s a good idea to make sure that it works before it’s desperately needed.
The following inspection and maintenance tips can be of some help to homeowners:

• Test the furnace by raising the temperature on the thermostat. If it does not respond to the adjustment quickly it might be broken.
• Replace the air filter if it’s dirty.
• If the furnace is equipped with an oil or propane tank, the tank should be full.

Cooling Systems

• Before freezing temperatures arrive use a hose to remove leaves and other debris from the outdoor condensing unit, if the home is equipped with one. Protect the unit with a breathable waterproof cover to prevent rusting and freezing of its components.
• Remove and store window air conditioners when they are no longer needed. Cold air can damage their components and enter the house through openings between the air conditioner and the windowpane.
• Ceiling fans can be reversed in order to move warm air trapped beneath the ceiling and recirculate it. How do you know if its spinning the correct way for winter?  A fan has been reversed if it spins clockwise.

Chimneys and Fireplaces

• The chimney should be inspected for nesting animals trying to escape the cold. Squirrels and raccoons have been known to enter chimneys for this reason. Secure your chimney with a proper finishing.
• The damper should open and close with ease. Smoke should rise up the chimney when the damper is open. If it doesn't, this means that there is an obstruction in the chimney that must be cleared before the fireplace can be used.
• A chimney-cleaning service professional should clean the chimney if it has not been cleaned for several years.
• The damper should be closed when the fireplace is not in use. An open damper might not be as obvious to the homeowner as an open window, but it can allow a significant amount of warm air to escape.
• Glass doors can be installed in fireplaces and wood stoves to provide an extra layer of insulation.

Roofs

• If debris is left in gutters, it can get wet and freeze, permitting the formation of ice dams that prevent water from draining. This added weight has the potential to cause damage to gutters. Also, trapped water in the gutter can enter the house and lead to the growth of mold. For these reasons, leaves, pine needles, and all other debris must be cleared from gutters. This can be done by hand or with a hose.
• Missing shingles should be replaced.

Landscape

• Patio furniture should be covered.
• If there is a deck, it might need an extra coat of sealer.

Adequate winterization is especially crucial for homes that are left unoccupied during the winter. This sometimes happens when homeowners who own multiple properties leave one home vacant for months at a time while they occupy their summer homes. Foreclosed homes are sometimes left unoccupied, as well. The heat may be shut off in vacant homes in order to save money. Such homes must be winterized in order to prevent catastrophic building damage.
 
In addition to the information above, InterNACHI advises the following measures to prepare an unoccupied home or cabin for the winter:

• Winterize toilets by emptying them completely. Antifreeze can be poured into toilets and other plumbing fixtures.   
• Winterize faucets by opening them and leaving them open.
• Water tanks and pumps need to be drained completely.
• Drain all water from indoor and outdoor plumbing.
• Unplug all non-essential electrical appliances, especially the refrigerator. If no electrical appliances are needed, electricity can be shut off at the main breaker. 
  

 
In summary, home winterization is a collection of preventative measures designed to protect homes against damage caused by cold temperatures. These measures should be performed in the fall, before it gets cold enough for damage to occur. Indoor plumbing is probably the most critical area to consider when preparing a home for winter, although other systems should not be ignored.
by Nick Gromicko and Kenton Shepard