Indoor air quality is generally worse than most people believe and here in Montana we spend a lot more time indoors in the cold winter months and people with conditions such as asthma can suffer more problems due the indoor air. But there are things you can do improve the air in your home.
 Some Quick Facts:

• Indoor air quality can be worse than that of outdoor air.
• Problems can arise from moisture, insects, pets, appliances, radon, materials used in household products and furnishings, smoke, and other sources.
• Effects range from minor annoyances to major health risks.
• Remedies include ventilation, cleaning, moisture control, inspections, and following manufacturers' directions when using appliances and products.
  

Many modern homes homes are built more tightly, without regard to the factors that assure fresh and healthy indoor air circulation. Even modern updates in older homes can restrict the amount of fresh air that enters a home.  Many homes today also contain furnishings, appliances and products that can affect indoor air quality.
 
Signs of indoor air quality problems include:

• unusual and noticeable odors;
• stale or stuffy air and a noticeable lack of air movement;
• dirty or faulty central heating or air-conditioning equipment;
• damaged flue pipes and chimneys;
• un-vented combustion air sources for fossil-fuel appliances;
• excessive humidity;
• the presence of molds and mildew;
• adverse health reactions after remodeling, weatherizing, bringing in new furniture, using household and hobby products; and 
• feeling noticeably healthier outside.

Common Sources of Air Quality Problems
Poor indoor air quality can arise from many sources. At least some of the following contaminants can be found in almost any home:

• moisture and biological pollutants, such as molds, mildew, dust mites, animal dander, and cockroaches;
• high humidity levels, inadequate ventilation, and poorly maintained humidifiers and air conditioners;
• combustion products, including carbon monoxide from un-vented fossil-fuel space heaters, un-vented gas stoves and ovens, and back-drafting from furnaces and water heaters;
• formaldehyde from durable-press draperies and other textiles, particleboard products, such as cabinets and furniture framing, and adhesives used in composite wood furniture and upholstery;
• radon, which is a radioactive gas from the soil and rock beneath and around the home's foundation, groundwater wells, and some building materials; (Radon in Missoula County can be very high. Every Montana home should be tested for Radon)
• household products, such as paints, solvents, air fresheners, hobby supplies, dry-cleaned clothing, aerosol sprays, adhesives, and fabric additives used in carpeting and furniture, which can release volatile organic compounds (VOCs); 
• asbestos, which is found in most homes more than 20 years old. Sources include deteriorating, damaged and disturbed pipe insulation, fire retardant, acoustical ceiling tiles, and floor tiles;
• lead from lead-based paint dust, which is created when removing paint by sanding, scraping or burning;
• particulates from dust and pollen, fireplaces, wood stoves, kerosene heaters, and un-vented gas space heaters; and
• tobacco smoke, which produces particulates, combustion products and formaldehyde.

 
Tips for Homeowners
•       Ask about formaldehyde content before buying furniture, cabinets and draperies.
•      Open packaging & air out new vinyl products like shower curtains allowing them to "off gas" outdoors or in a ventilated area until the strong smell has gone.
•       Promptly clean and dry water-damaged carpet, or remove it altogether.
•       Vacuum regularly, especially if you have pets, and consider using area rugs instead of wall-to-wall carpeting. Rugs are easier to remove and clean, and the floor underneath can also be easily cleaned.
•       Eliminate unwanted moisture intrusion by checking for sources (such as holes and cracks in the basement and other areas, and leaks from appliances), and by using a dehumidifier.
•       Open windows and use fans to maintain fresh air with natural and mechanical air circulation.
•        Always open the flue damper before using the fireplace.  This will also prevent carbon-monoxide poisoning.
•       If your air conditioner has a water tray, empty and clean it often during the cooling season.
•       If you smoke, smoke outdoors and away from any windows and doors.
•       Use the range vent above your stove whenever you cook.
•       Use the bathroom vent whenever you use the bathroom.
•       Don’t leave vehicles or lawn care equipment running in your garage.  Make sure the door leading from the home to the garage has a door sweep to help keep out vapors.

Your Home Inspection Solutions InterNACHI certified inspector can recommend more ways to help you maintain healthy indoor air quality for you and your family.

Snow Drifts + Furnace Vents = Carbon Monoxide Poisoning
This is important! As the snow falls and builds up and the wind blows and drifts that can block vents & cause carbon monoxide poisoning , be sure to check your furnace and plumbing vents OUTSIDE to make certain they didn't get blocked with snow in order to keep your family safe & warm.
Please see the information below from some local Mantana sources :
From: NorthWestern Energy in Havre, Montana.

· The following is a message from a Havre customer illustrates the critical importance of ensuring all furnace vents are clear of snow and ice during the winter months. Thank you for writing.
Havre has had its share of snowstorms this year, and a couple weeks ago, we were hit hard again. This time the snow drifted pretty high. I've always been very safety conscience and after one night of particularly heavy snow with drifts, I called my mom and told her to check all of her vents (roof/side) and she told me they were all fine. I'm notorious for making sure my family and friends all know what to look for and to make sure they're safe when the weather takes a turn.
My house has the side exhaust, and I think often times these are overlooked, especially if they are on a side of the house that isn't frequently travelled by in the winter. Of course, I take the time to read the NorthWestern Energy Inserts in the bill, and I often see helpful hints and safety information in them, which is fantastic. After the snow subsided, I went outside and started checking everything as I often do. I inspect all my vents and clear space around them, but this time the drifts were well over four-feet high. My furnace exhaust vent was buried and underneath I found a chunk of ice that was covering more than half of the airflow. (It appeared the exhaust had melted a little pathway through the snow and ice thankfully, but nonetheless it was a close call.) I thought to myself that it wasn't that long ago I had checked it, but the heavy blowing snow covered it in no time at all.
The picture I've included is of the ice I removed from my furnace exhaust. If I had not inspected the area, I'm certain CO would have become a problem, and one that is completely preventable. My hope is that everyone reads the information your company puts out there and practices it in the real world.
I do want to say thank you for continually providing safety information in the newsletters that come out with the bills. This time of year is bad enough with the weather being difficult, roads being terrible, and flu bugs going around. It's important that we make home our safe place to be, and, as customers, we need to ensure that we are proactive for the safety of our families. Inspecting vents, meters, and clearing them takes just a few minutes to ensure the safe operation of heating appliances. Don't wait until something happens to take action. Natural gas and electrical safety is something we all should be proactive about, not reactive. Waiting for a problem to occur can cost people their health, or even life, therefore being reactive should never be an option. So, with that, I say thanks again for the information you provide and attached is the proof that it is extremely important. I hope you had a happy holiday season, and best wishes this New Year. Thanks!

Please be alert and travel safe. Watch for downed lines in Montana and follow NorthWestern Energy's outage map for the latest information regarding power outages. You can report an outage online at: https://goo.gl/V9TwEz

Learn more here: How to Keep Furnace Vents Clear of Snow and Ice
by Hamilton Home Comfort

Color Rendering Index (CRI)
CRI is a quantitative measure of the ability of a light source to reproduce the colors of various objects faithfully, in comparison with an ideal or natural light source. The closer the CRI of a lamp is to 100, the more "true" it renders colors in the environment. Poor CRI is the reason that a shirt and pants that seemed to match at home now clash in the restroom at work.  Incandescent lights are inefficient but they have a CRI of 100, making them the most aesthetic lighting choice. Compact fluorescents lights (CFLs) are far more efficient and have a longer life than incandescent bulbs, but they have a CRI in the low 60s. Low-voltage halogen and LED lights are relatively efficient, long-lasting, and have a high CRI, although not as high as incandescent bulbs. 

Clothes Closet Lighting 
People don’t often think about the fire risks posed by the light in their clothes closet, but it’s one of the few places in the house where a source of high heat can get too close to flammable materials. Lighting must be installed safely, with adequate separation from clothes, boxes and other flammables stored in the closet.  Additionally, the quality of the light, as well as bulb efficiency, will influence your lighting choices.  

The 2009 International Residential Code (IRC) on "Permitted Luminaires and Clearance from Clothing"
The IRC defines a "luminaire" as:  
a complete lighting unit consisting of a lamp or lamps, together with the parts designed to distribute the light, to position and protect the lamps and ballast (where applicable), and to connect the lamps to the power supply. 
Types of luminaires permitted by the 2009 International Residential Code (IRC) include:

• surface-mounted or recessed incandescent luminaires with completely enclosed lamps, surface-mounted or recessed fluorescent luminaires; and 
• surface-mounted fluorescent or LED luminaires identified as suitable for installation within the storage area. 

Luminaires not permitted by the 2009 IRC include:

• Incandescent luminaires with open or partially enclosed lamps and pendant luminaires or lamp-holders should be prohibited. 

Clearances permitted by the 2009 IRC:

• The minimum distance between luminaires installed in clothes closets and the nearest point of a storage area shall be as follows:

1. Surface-mounted incandescent or LED luminaires with a completely enclosed light source shall be installed on a wall above the door or on the ceiling, provided that there is a minimum clearance of 12 inches between the fixture and the nearest point of a storage space.
2. Surface-mounted fluorescent luminaires shall be installed on the wall above the door or on the ceiling, provided that there is a minimum clearance of 6 inches. 
3. Recessed incandescent luminaires or LED luminaires with a completely enclosed light source shall be installed in the wall or the ceiling, provided that there is a minimum clearance of 6 inches. 
4. Recessed fluorescent luminaires shall be installed in the wall or on the ceiling, provided that there is a minimum clearance of 6 inches between the fixture and the nearest point of storage space. 
5. Surface-mounted fluorescent or LED luminaires shall be permitted to be installed within the storage space where identified within this use. 

Also, metal pull chains may be dangerous; if the base cracks, the chain can become electrified. 
Homeowners should replace lighting in their clothes closets if the light has the potential to ignite flammable materials in the closet. 
NightlightsA nightlight is a small, low-powered electrical light source placed for comfort or convenience in indoor areas that become dark at night.

Facts and Figures

• Before they were powered electrically, nightlights were usually long-burning candles placed in fireproof metal cups, known as tealights in some countries. (Tealights in the U.S. refer to very short and wide candles that can be purchased within or without an aluminum tin cup that are commonly used inside a decorative glass holder.  They are also known as votive candles.) 
• There are roughly 90 million nightlights purchased each year in the United States. In 2001 alone, more than 600,000 of them were recalled by manufacturers for safety reasons. 
• Defective nightlights can cause fires, burns and electrocution. 

Uses
Nightlights are typically installed to create a sense of security and to alleviate fears of the dark, especially for children. They also illuminate the general layout of a room without causing the eyestrain created by a standard light, helping to prevent tripping down stairs and over objects. This is an important safety measure for older adults, for whom falls are the leading cause of injury-related deaths, according to the National Association for Home Care and Hospice. Nightlights may also be used to mark an emergency exit.
Types
A wide variety of nightlights is available to homeowners; bulbs vary from incandescent to energy-efficient options, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs), neon lamps, and electroluminescent bulbs. Some of these devices are equipped with a light-sensitive switch that activates the light only when it’s dark enough for them to be required, saving electricity and the effort needed to manually turn them on and off. Some designs also incorporate a rechargeable battery so they will continue to function during power outages.
Nightlights present the following hazards:

• fire. Nightlights can become excessively hot, causing them to melt and pose a risk of fire if they come in contact with flammable materials, according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). The CPSC receives roughly 10 reports annually of fires that were caused when nightlights ignited toilet paper, pillows, bedspreads and other flammable materials. In many of these cases, the nightlight was installed so close to the bed that falling blankets or pillows made contact with the nightlight and started a fire. For this reason, nightlights should not be plugged in next to bed coverings, curtains, and other potentially flammable objects and materials. Nightlights should not covered with tape, cardboard or any other material that might cause them to overheat. Homeowners may consider using nightlights equipped with mini neon bulbs instead of higher-wattage bulbs; 
• poisoning. So-called “bubble" nightlights are special, decorative nightlights that contain a dangerous chemical called methylene chloride. If the vial breaks, the unit should be thrown away immediately and precautions should be taken to avoid skin contact with the leaking chemical; and 
• electric shock. Nightlights pose the risk of electric shock when used outdoors or in locations that may become wet, such near sinks, hot tubs, in garages, and at covered patios. They should never be plugged into an extension cord, surge-protector strip, multiple-outlet strip, or other movable types of receptacles. Electric shock is also possible if the nightlight overheats and melts.

Additional Tips 

• Plug the nightlight into an exposed wall outlet where it will be well-ventilated. 
• Do not repair any nightlight yourself.  Only replace the bulb. 
• Avoid installing nightlights in locations where they might be exposed to excessive sunlight, as UV rays will degrade the plastic. 
• Never let children handle nightlights. If you have small children, avoid purchasing or installing a nightlight decorated with cute or funny figures to which they may be attracted and that may be easy for them to reach. 

Used by permission interNACHI

Missoula housing has always had its quirks, usually related to lack of industry & out of state buyers.
Here is a recent article by Don Fisher that discusses this issue & offers  a survey sponsored by a partnership between the Missoula Organization of REALTORS, the City of Missoula, Missoula County, the Missoula Economic Partnership, the Missoula Building Industry Association, and the Missoula Area Chamber of Commerce & business sponsors.

The Missoula Organization of Realtors, in conjunction with the City of Missoula and other local partners, are giving residents the opportunity to give feedback on a increasingly difficult, and expensive, housing market for buyers. As the median home price in Missoula continues to grow, officials are turning to the public in a search for answers.
The Missoula Organization of Realtors says the main problem is that Missoula’s cost of housing has far outpaced incomes in recent years. In 2016, the median sales price of a home reached a record high of $255,000. But that continues to rise, with today's price close to $270,000.
In response, local organizations launched the "Making Missoula Home: A Path to Attainable Housing" initiative. Part of that is this new survey, asking residents to give them an idea of what they're looking for....    Read Full Article Here

Egress:  Basements and every sleeping room should have at least one operable emergency escape and rescue opening that opens directly onto a public street, public alley, yard or court. This standard is required because many deaths and injuries happen when occupants are asleep at the time of a house fire and the normal means of escape (through doors) are typically blocked. 
The sill height of the emergency escape and rescue opening should not be more than 44 inches above the floor. If the window has a sill height below ground level, a window well should be provided. The window well should have a horizontal area of at least 9 square feet, with a minimum horizontal projection and width of 36 inches (with the exception of a ladder encroachment into the required dimension.
Many city regulations require egress windows be installed in older homes before they may be used as rental units, check with your local offices.

The sill height of the emergency escape and rescue opening should not be more than 44 inches above the floor. If the window has a sill height below ground level, a window well should be provided. The window well should have a horizontal area of at least 9 square feet, with a minimum horizontal projection and width of 36 inches (with the exception of a ladder encroachment into the required dimension).  If an emergency escape window is located under a porch or deck, the porch or deck should allow the window to be fully opened and the escape path should be at least 3 feet high.

You can’t be prepared to act in an emergency if you don’t have a plan and everybody knows what that plan is.  Panic and fear can spread as quickly as a fire, so map out an escape route and a meeting place outdoors, and involve even the youngest family members so that everyone can work as a unit to make a safe escape.